Beautifully ageing skin

Beauty | 29.4.2016 | Katja Kokko


Naturally ageing skin is beautiful and I believe it shouldn´t be fought against, at least not with a surgeons knife. We all have an internal longing for beauty. We want to feel beautiful and dignified. I believe that through ageing we begin to value and need more self appreciation and self care. Often the emphasis of skin care takes the front seat when we see the first signs of ageing. A well cared skin ages beautifully despite the wrinkles and sagging.

While choosing skin care products we should not only look at the recommendation numbers on the products but the actual age of the skin, the signs of premature ageing- extrinsic ageing, and not so much at the physical age- intrinsic ageing. Skins age is affected by UV rays, pollution, smoking, excessive use of alcohol, diet (the lack of nutrients and malabsorption of nutrients) , skin care routines and especially nowadays the lack of sleep and excessive stress.

According to research only three percent of signs of ageing skin are due to genetics while the rest is up to lifestyle choices. (Surely the skin ages along with our biological clocks and this can not be stopped.) This is very interesting, because according to the South African scientific research based skin care line Esse one of the biggest contributors to the skins health is it´s microbiome, not so much the genetical makeup. And guess what we can do to enhance the skins microbiome? Check our lifestyle choices and our skin care regimen.


The Esse Plus skin care line is designed for ageing skin but it consists of products that can be used in treating premature signs of ageing especially with people who have been neglecting their skin care routine, spent too much time under the sun, smoked for years or where the skin has been long exposed to external stress like pollution. Let´s take a thorough look at these products.

Esse Plus Probiotic Serum

The probiotic serum is the highlight of the whole line. It is designed for 40+ skin and can be used as a treatment for younger skin to repair the skins microbiome and to fortify it´s barrier function so the skin can perform it´s most important task at ease. The skins most important function is to hold moisture in and protect our organs from harmful substances and bacteria.

The probiotic serum is the first cosmetics product with live probiotic microbes in the world. One millilitre of the product contains over one billion live probiotic microbes, so in one drop there is some 50million live probiotic microbes. The motion of the live probiotic microbes can be detected when the serum is viewed under a microscope.  The probiotics are kept live in the oil base of the serum. They are activated on the skin while coming into contact with water, preferably with a toner and a moisturiser.

The probiotics in the serum are from three different strands of Lactobacillus. The Lactobacillus bacteria produces lactic acid on the skin which ties moisture to the skin, keeps it´s pH acidic and protects from harmful bacteria. It also plays a part in creating Hyaluronic acid, this said, the skins bacterial base has an essential effect on the skins moisture content. Think about this, 30% of our bodies microbes are in our gut and 20% are on the skin! Our microbial flora has a huge effect on our overall health.

The probiotic serum reduces inflammation, keeps moisture in and protects our skin from external damages while the signs of premature ageing slow down. It suits all skin types, but is not for continual use. Even with ageing skin it is recommended to to take a break form using the serum every now and then. With problem skin it can be used morning and evening, otherwise in the evening.  The serum can be used with the other serums in the Esse Plus line but it is advisable to evaluate what the skin really needs so that you don´t end up over treating your skin. To get the best out of the serum it should be used together with the Esse Plus moisturisers containing prebiotics.

Preservatives and a pH too high can kill the probiotics. For this reason Esse products should not be combined with other product lines. All Esse products are pH regulated acidic and the preservatives in their products do not harm the probiotics. 


Esse Plus Intensity Serum

The Intensity Serum is the answer to a fast smoothing of fine lines. It´s effects are visible in 30 to 60 minutes of application which may be accompanied with a slight tingling sensation. The active ingredient is Mafane extract which contains spilanthol acting as a natural botox. The serum relaxes the facial muscles softening fine lines and wrinkles. The effect lasts for about 24 hours or until the product is cleansed off the skin. The serum has a true Cinderella effect.

The Intensity Serum has a long term firming effect as well. The Devil´s Claw extract protects collagen and elastane and the Kigelia extract firms the skin. On top of this the product contains the largest amount of low molecyle hyaluronic acid that Esse has seen to be safe which maintains skins moisture balance and aids in smoothing out wrinkles. The prebiotics feed healthy microbes and probiotics help in defending against harmful bacteria. The probiotics in this product are not live instead the cells are broken and filtered.

The Intensity Serum which works charms is meant to be used in the morning or before a party. It wouldn´t be best used in the evening but instead you can use a probiotic serum before bed time. The Intensity Serum can be used for the eye contour area as well, but not on the upper lids. The serum is mainly designed for 40+ skin so it is advisable to take in account the skins age: It can be used on younger skins with deep wrinkles due to over exposure to sun, smoking or severe dryness.

The secondary active ingredients in the serum are rooibos, Kalahari melon oil, aloe vera, chamomile, sage, vitamins C and E and olive leaf extract.


Esse Plus Agelesss Serum

The Ageless serum is the number 1 anti-age serum from Esse, it is designed for visibly mature skin to firm the connective tissue. The serum prevents melasma from developing and lightens already existing ones, firms and enhances skins elasticity and reduces swelling. The product is perfect for enhancing the elasticity of the eye contour area. The prominent effects can be seen after 25 days of use, but the first signs can be detected in a couple of weeks.

The concentrated combination of Suma root, Muira Puama plant and Madonna lily extracts lighten and smoothen the skin. Devil´s claw and Kigelia extract firm the skin and protect both collagen and elastane. The content of low molecular hyaluronic acid is very high in this product but 5% lower than in the Intensity Serum which is the primary fine line smoother of the line. The serum also contains both pre- and probiotics.

Ageless serum can be used both morning and evening and it suits all skin types. All Esse Plus lines serums and moisturisers are packaged in vacuum containers that have been immersed in glass bottles which makes the recycling of the packages easy after the product has been used.

The secondary effective ingredients of the serum are honeybush, panthenol, rooibos, Kalahari melon oil, aloe vera, vitamins C and E and olive leaf extract.


Esse Plus Eye Contour Cream

The eye contour cream is designed especially for the treatment of dark circles and over pigmentation. It reduces swelling and treats premature signs of ageing like wrinkles due to smoking or over exposure to the sun.

The cream contains daisy extract which slows down melanosomes progressing to melanocytes and up to keratinocytes. Every melanosyte on the skin is in contact with about 36 skin cells and transfers melanosomes to all of them. The extract prevents this to a large account and aids in lightening the dark pigmentation under the eyes. The Albiza extract diminishes fine lines and puffiness, enhances the collagen and elastane synthesis and prevents capillary breakage in the delicate eye contour area. The product contains the largest amount of hyaluronic acid that Esse sees safe to use for the eye contour area. The cream also contains both pre- and probiotics, Devil´s claw and Kigelia extracts.

The cream can be used both morning and evening and it can be used on the lips as well. It´s secondary active ingredients are rooibos, Kalahari melon oil, aloe vera, vitamins C and E and olive leaf extract.


Esse Plus Defence Moisturiser

The Defence Moisturiser from Esse is my personal favorite. It´s texture is between Esse´s basic line´s Light Moisturiser and Deep Moisturiser and suits normal, combination and oily skins. The moisturiser contains a high amount of low molecular hyaluronic acid which makes it a bit more moisturising than the basic line´s moisturisers and it´s active ingredients are designed for treating  ageing skin. Defence Moisturiser is especially designed to protect the skin from pollution but it can be used in the evening as well.

The moisturiser contains the African Yangu and Manketti olis which naturally protect the skin from UVA and UVB rays with a SPF of about 4. This kind of SPF is enough if you don´t spend excessive time in direct sunlight. The prebiotics enhance the barrier function and reduce inflammation and the probiotic extract (not live probiotics) enhance the skins microbial flora and protect against harmful bacteria. The overall effect enhances skins health by adding moisture and fortifying the skins T-connections which have a profound effect on the skins barrier function. The Devil´s Claw and Kigelia extracts protect collagen and elastane.

The secondary active ingredients in the serum are rooibos, Kalahari melon oil, aloe vera, chamomile, sage, vitamins C and E and olive leaf extract.

Esse Plus Restorative Moisturiser

The texture of the Restorative Moisturiser is between Esse´s basic line´s  Rich Moisturiser and Ultra Moisturiser. It is an intensely moisturising cream for normal, thin and dry skins either twice a day or in the evening. The cream enhances the lushness of the skin and it´s moisture retention.

The primary active ingredients of the cream are the same as in the  Defence Moisturiser but it´s hyaluronic acid content is higher. The secondary active ingredients are rooibos, Kalahari melon oil, aloe vera, chamomile, vitamins C and E, olive leaf extract and sandalwood.

With Esse Plus products it is advisable to use the probiotic  Toner Plus.

For spa treatments Esse has Omega masks and galvanic gels ( they are saturated in the skin with galvanic current). The Repair oil is used for facial massages and the line also has an enzyme peel and the Cocoa Exfoliator peel. You can find your closest Esse cosmetologist in Finland through the Finnish Esse website.

So much information once again but it is absolutely impossible to be short with Esse!

Have you had a chance to try the Esse Plus products? I have used the eye contour cream, the probiotic serum and the  Defence Moisturiser and my skin loves them. I tried the Intensity serum on my hand and it´s effect is amazing! All the fine lines vanished with a slight tingling sensation. 


Photos Katja Kokko

Translated by Mariko Pajalahti

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