Preservatives in cosmetics are supposed to destroy harmful microbes so that the product itself wouldn’t spoil. But how well will the products active ingredients like perishable vitamins stand the test of time if the products shelf life is long? Isn´t a freshly prepared product more effective than a product that has been on the shelf for a year?
Lately there has been discussion in my blog´s comments on irritating ingredients, especially on preservatives that are used in natural cosmetics. Even though in natural cosmetics they are the same ingredients that the food industry uses (we are eating the same preservatives!), for some they may cause skin irritation. Preservatives may also compromise the skins natural microbial flora which we know to be a cornerstone for healthy skin and it´s natural functions.
While researching these aspects the Danish (and Finnish born) Jasmi Bonnén created her own natural cosmetics brand. The name of her brand, Nuori which means young in Finnish, is telling of the philosophy behind the brand.
Nuori produces fresh cosmetics, which exactly like it´s name, is fresh and young. The products are manufactured in small batches every 12 weeks and are delivered directly to retailers. Every package is marked with a start-using-by date, the date when at the latest you should start using the product and expiry date, suggesting when the product should be used by or changed to a new one. Using the product within these timelines the customer can be assured they are using a fresh and effective product.
As an addition to the timelines on their products Nuori does not use any preservatives. This was where my skepitcism rose like a snails tentacles at rain and I begun to go through the ingredients list with a magnifying glass and even reached out to an expert on cosmetics chemistry. Any product containing water will spoil easily and no one wants to apply a product live with harmful microbes near the eyes.
After a thorough investigation on their products I found peace of mind: Nuori ensures their products freshness in a sufficient way regarding harmful bacteria as well. One of these ways is by using air tight and opaque packaging. For instance the moisturisers are packaged in air tight vacuum pouches and placed inside glass bottles. The other, very substantive factor is the fact that the products are manufactured in small batches to the demand of retailers, no product will be merely filling shelf space and the exact dates for both start using by and expiry date of the product leaves no guessing on how long they remain fresh. As antibacterial ingredients Nuori uses essential oils and in water based products a 100% plant based pentylene glycol which works as a solvent, a moisturising agent and it has antibacterial properties that prevent the growth of harmful bacteria, yeasts and mold.
So the bare basics are good: the brand is natural cosmetics and the product preservability is secured. What is new and interesting about the brand is it´s products freshness and their active ingredients. How will Nuori perform in use? My test group contains the following products Supreme C Serum Treatment, Vital Facial Cream, Perfecting Facial Oil, Lip Treat and Vital Hand Cream.
Truth be told, I did not expect too much from the two week test because the products I use on a regular are top quality anyway. On the first morning after using the Nuori products the previous evening I was surprised to see my skin looking visibly brighter and smoother. I´m going to give highest praise to the Supreme C Serum Treatment which is a true gem of the product family.
Supreme C is a 20 day brightening intensive treatment which repairs the skin of free radical damage, revitalises and brightens the skin, lightens melasma, boosts collagen production in the skin by firming and binding moisture to the skin and smoothens fine lines. A true intensive treatment with visible results! The secret of this product is vitamin C which is known to be a delicate ingredient. In Nuori´s intensive treatment it is mixed in the serum upon taking the product in use! Wow! The vitamin C powder is packed in a capsule at the top of the serum bottle and is released with a click. After pressing the button shake the bottle vigorously and by opening the cork you can see when the powder has dissolved into the serum. Open the bottle and use a pipette to apply the readily mixed product. How cool is that! The bottle should be used within ten days of opening (it wouldn´t last for longer anyway) and then there is the next vial to use for the remainder of the next 10 days. This is a great idea, to have two small vials instead of one large bottle, one more great way to ensure the efficacy of Vitamin C.
Supreme C Serum Treatment contains glycerin and hyaluronic acid which maintain the skins moisture balance by binding moisture into the skin. Rose water calms the skin. Ferulic acid repairs free radical damage and works in synergy with vitamin C by preventing melasma. Arginine is an amino acid, it´s antioxidant properties protect the skin from free radicals and it supports collagen production in the skin and enhances skin elasticity. If you want to try just one product from the Nuori line, definitely go for the Supreme C Serum Treatment!
Vital Facial Cream is an ideal moisturiser for the season crawling towards winter because it contains plant based squalane. Skin sebum naturally contains about 12% squalane which is an amazing emollient, a skin softner, and a moisturising agent – a great ingredient for the dry and cold season to maintain skins moisture levels. The cream contains also shea butter, jojoba oli and almond oil which are all great ingredients for pampering and nourishing dry and sensitive skin. Vitamins C and E protect the skin from free radicals and hyaluronic acid moisturises. The cream contains essential oils such as Lemon, Orange, Grapefruit, Brergamoth and Ylang Ylang, which brighten the skin all the while preventing infection and protecting the product from harmful microbes. The product is very delicate and mild in scent and thus is suitable for persons with scent sensitivities.
Vital Facial Cream suits dry, sensitive, eczema, couperosa, normal, combination and ageing skins. For oily or acne skins I recommend using a lighter moisturiser.
Perfecting Facial Oil is a perfect nourishing and renewing oil serum which contains heaps of high quality cold pressed plant oils: grape seed, apricot seed, almond, jojoba, rose hip and evening primrose oils. They give a diverse batch of omega fatty acids and vitamins, thus superfood for the skin. The facial oil is spiked with vitamin E and a cocktail of essential oils which preserve the product, nourish the skin and give a beautiful scent to the oil.
The oil serum suits all skin types: for normal, dry and combination skins use 2-5 drops of the serum morning and evening, for oily skins only in the evenings. A high quality plant oil cocktail is a skin care corner stone for moisturising and cleansing and is a must have in every vanity.
The Nuori cleanser is a foam, which is why I skipped the product all together from my test group. The line does not yet carry a toner, but I´m sure one is in the works as we speak. I´m excited to see what kind of products will be joining the Nuori product family.
The line has a couple of body care products as well, Vital Body Balm moisturiser and the Perfecting Body Oil. I haven´t had the chance to try these out yet, but for the last two products in my test group there´s the Lip Treat and Vital Hand Cream.
In the search of the perfect winter lip balm Lip Treat may bring the search to an end. The balms composition of plant oils and waxes is perfect. The waxes prevent moisture from escaping the skin and the oils give a pleasant, silky feel and soften the lips. The balm contains shea butter, bees wax, almond oil, apricot seed oil, avocado butter and cacao butter which are all very nourishing. The deliciously sweet scent is of vanilla and peppermint.
The scent of the Vital Hand Cream is amazing! It´s easily absorbing all the while moisturising and softening the skin. While perfect for hands and cuticles the cream is ideal for softening the rough skin around the heels and elbows as well. It contains botanical squalane, shea butter, grapeseed oil and almond oil which nourish the skin, vitamin E and white the extract protect from free radicals. The packaging is an innovative tube with a pump that protects the product from spoiling and makes it a perfect on the go hand cream.
I must say that aside the lovely products Nuori´s packaging and brand look in all it´s simplicity is something very cool and different. Especially the powerful yellow makes me happy.
What do you think about Nuori? Have you had a chance to try their products already?
Photos Katja Kokko
Translated by Mariko Pajalahti
